19th October, Thursday
At Vienna airport we got to the Salzburg train platform with a few minutes to spare. We got off in Linz after passing the journey over a few beers in the dining car. It couldn’t really have been more pleasant. There’s nothing to see on the way anyway.
Having stopped at the Bosner Eck for the much-touted (by me, not least) Bosner groß, we got to the Mühlviertlerhof with its dark timber charm. Bags dumped in our rooms, we crossed the river, over and back, and went up to the Schloss before entering the Old Dubliner, at the back of a Hauptplatz tunnel.
For the sake of variety, at least on the first night, we also had a drink in the Café Aquarium before hunger returned and JP then complained about the length of the walk back down Landstrasse to the Bosner Eck. (I know it’s good but I would have eaten anywhere.) This time we also had 3-Stecken Bratwürstels (his idea) and thus got our veg from the sauerkraut. If I’d eaten everything, it would have meant I’d had nine sausages that day. (The night before, I’d made us a rasher and sausage sandwich each, for arrival at the airport.) I don’t know if JP managed it. By the time he finished, I’d stepped away from the stand, for air.
On the way down we’d spotted the big bar called Josef, which was our last stop. Up on the Schloss, JP had said it was a quiet city. It was only Thursday but there were plenty of people in there after midnight.
20th October, Friday
We had a spicy chicken dish for lunch at a Vietnamese place up the street (Wok am Graben) and then went to Café Traxlmayr for coffee and dessert. There a pair of retired ladies chatting over a couple of tall beers attracted the attention of JP.
Fair play to the two old dears, tanning the pints in the middle of the day.
Naturally I could not take a photo of them, no matter how great the temptation.
We got to Passau at 3.15. The Inn is very scenic near Passau. High wooded banks continue for several miles. The warm sunshine contrasted with the fog in Linz. Having gone down the left bank of the Inn to the peninsula tip where it meets the Danube, we walked back through the Altstadt and had a nice meal at a place called Bi Plano. The goulash was good. It got cold outside at sundown but there were orange blankets on the backs of the chairs. Passau is very like Steyr but it’s a college town.
Back in Linz we first went to Smaragd, which was pleasant at first, in terms of lighting, venerable music and a pretty girl behind the front bar, but eventually other music from somewhere started a cacophony – this gave the impression of no one being in charge – and we returned to the Old Dubliner, where we soon got the same bar stools as the night before.
The same girl from the second night of my last visit to Linz (2015) was behind the counter this time. She looked good, all grown up. Interesting eyes, hard to read. A local Celtic fan with communist leanings told me her name. I took a photo of a young chap buckled at a table where she kindly left a pint of water. JP had earlier observed him sucking on a thick cigar, though the electric fan in the pub did make the smoke a lot more tolerable than it was two years ago.
Another lad, who looked like an Arab, wanted travel advice about Ireland. He wanted to visit Kilkenny because he liked the ale of that name.
21st October, Saturday
Linz was very damp this morning. On the train to Vienna, a row developed between the couple sitting at the table across from ours. She was on the phone for a long time first, a good-looking girl with faintly Asiatic features. Russian, I guessed, from a few words I could make out, such as mozhnó, droog and rabot. When he wasn’t eating (an apple, a banana, other stuff) or sleeping behind a hanging jacket, he spoke to her in English and his accent was Germanic (i.e. Austrian).
They had a weekend engagement in Vienna, so flowers and a present had to be bought for their hosts, but first he wanted to deposit her at the Albertina while he walked around for a while. Unfortunately for her, it seemed he intended for her to carry three bags around while at the museum. “I’m shocked,” she said, several times. She also observed that he was “the man in this couple”, which had Mr Sensitive asking how she managed when she was on her own. She countered with “But I’m not on my own now” so he offered to carry one bag.
When the train stopped at Wien Hbf he told her there was no need to get off immediately (?) because it wouldn’t move on towards the airport for a few minutes but she really had heard enough by then and left the scene. He reluctantly followed. There’ll be no happy ever after in that relationship. She’d also got in a dig about him always finding the time and opportunity to eat, so it sounded like she was quite familiar with the various ways he would suit himself, if given the chance. Half a chance.