Zagreb 28 March 2023

2023

28 March, Tuesday 

AM 

The eight o’clock flight didn’t take off until half past nine so flying faster and shaving half an hour in the air didn’t achieve a whole lot. The taxi man was older and bigger than me and when I stuck out my hand, he squeezed it like a Balkan bear. A man of few words, he drove up to the hotel door, ignoring the pedestrian zone at the late hour. He only smiled when I gave him a tenner. Having given the docket to the night porter, he did it again when saying good night. I wonder how many inhuman fares give these guys nothing, given the damage goes on the hotel bill. In the airport car park, I’d asked him could I sit in front, and he said, no, no, but it was only on the empty road that I copped that the front passenger seat was where he stored all his sh*t. Between the seats I could see a cable and what not. I’m glad I chose a bit of comfort here at the Hotel Dubrovnik. The room has two doubles and a minibar. I’m not sure which of the beds I’ll sleep in.

4 PM 

Got lunch (goulash) at Mali Medo after walking the parks horseshoe; then had a nap. The waiter smiled at the nationality (iz Irske) of the tipper. I was gladly paying extra for any practice. I’d made it to the hotel breakfast before ten but then briefly gone back to bed. A waitress had told me at the coffee machine that I was a good boy to have learnt some Croatian, unlike most visitors. I think I’ll go up the hill to Grič now for a while, though I’m not thirsty. There is pleasant sunshine, though the morning was a little cold. The Croats are not loud. They look human as they pass. They don’t have alien expressions on their faces. 

11 PM 

The lad behind the counter in Pod Starim Krovovima had a beard and a shaved head. He said he thought my accent or way of speaking was Slovenian. Did he give me the one on the house just because I was the first in? I didn’t quite catch that bit. The bog-of happened when I ordered a second drink. He put up two pints for the price of one. I left before dark and down the hill ducked into Krolo, which was dark and busy, though I got a counter stool and soaked up the scene. I left there before nine, thinking I’d get some grub at the Submarine, but by then Croatia was playing on TV and I was reduced to crisps from a kiosk and the minibar. Now I’ve been here twice, I’m a veteran, so to speak. I’ll be back again, with better flight times.