Biarritz, June 2017

Biarritz, June 2017

19th June, Monday

Resting in the hotel, Le Gamaritz, where I was checked in by a lovely (both senses) girl of no more than thirty. Most probably less. Her father was recently in Ireland. He liked la bière. This morning I got a taxi to the station in Bordeaux. If you tell a Frenchman that you’re from Ireland it seems fifty-fifty that he’ll mention rugby. At the station I just sat there, conserving energy. Nearby a little blonde of five or six watched a lame pigeon. She spoke to her father. Il a mal.

On the train, a quite elegant lady sat across the table but spent much of her time nose-picking, while reading. I nodded off a few times but in Biarritz there were no taxis at the station.

Photo1492

Got a bus for a euro to the Mairie and then set off on foot in the general direction of the hotel. A green neon pharmacy sign said thirty-six degrees. Bag or no bag, I took a break in the church of Ste. Eugénie before getting the camera out along the rocky seafront. This is a tasty resort. Surf crashes on the brown rocks both onshore and offshore and falls back into the varying twinkling shades of blue. The swimmers down below look and sound happy.

IMG_5388

 

IMG_5398

Though I found the street name at a T-junction, I took the wrong turn that wound around to a very hot hill but a retired gent put me right. Je vous accompagne. After seven I headed out.

IMG_5418

Dined very well at Casa Juan Pedro, which overlooks the water at the Port des Pêcheurs. A fillet of hake and a half-litre carafe of white wine were followed by some fruity ice cream. Less than thirty euro.

 

IMG_5429

 

Photo1488

Thirty-one years ago (1986) there was a plan of sorts for a family holiday in Biarritz. It fell through and my parents took themselves to Antibes, on a bus from London, I think. They were harder times. The original plan gets a mention in the short video I’d made out at the Rocher de la Vierge.

IMG_5422

While I was at the tip, there were some swimmers (and surfers) hundreds of yards offshore but still inside the outer rocks. There must be strong tidal currents, though, as they changed position very fast. From there I wandered around to the rocky harbour that now only contains pleasure craft. By the time I left the table at the restaurant (it’s all al fresco) some cloud had gathered, out at sea. Wind rose down on the Grande Plage.

IMG_5447

Bordeaux, June 2017

Bordeaux, June 2017

17th June, Saturday

I’m in the Black Velvet Bar at eight, with a pint of Carlsberg. A burger is on its way. Though this place was on my list I’ve just found it by accident, in that I took a left off the Quai Richelieu to photograph something, on my way to the Bourse, and spotted the street name.

IMG_5250

IMG_5251

The Garonne is muddy filthy, like a series of chocolate whirlpools. Though very warm, it isn’t as hot here as I’d feared. There is a breeze. I was right about a wine convention bunging up the local hotels. At the airport I saw a sign for the VinExpo and the taxi driver asked had I come for it. Non, le rouge me donne une gueule de bois. That was my way of saying red wine blows my head off. Too much of it. At nine, I found the Café Brun. I took some photos before it filled up.

IMG_5273

IMG_5279

IMG_5281

The DJ is behind my end of the counter. He had a problem with his Mac charger. Wires exposed on the lead meant it was fumé – i.e. ‘smoked’ – and he had to shoot home on his scooter for another.

“Lor” AKA Lorenzo also told me he was ordered by le patron to play Eighties stuff tonight but I got him to put on some French hits from that decade, starting with France Gall and Ella Elle L’a. The crowd liked that. Anyway, there was a bit too much English junk otherwise (e.g. Pass the Dutchie) but Hoegaarden’s on tap & I even got a buy-back. I’ll be back.

After leaving there I wandered around some more, lingering in Place St. Pierre and thinking this city is lovely, not least at night with the calm, warm ambience. It’s a mini Paris, without the hassle.

IMG_5288

IMG_5293

I went back to the Black Velvet Bar and had a few more. I got joined by two young lads, one of whom banned the other from practising his English. The former later threw up in the toilets, in a brief time-out. Another character to appear was a flower seller in a fetching blond lady’s wig. Except he wasn’t selling flowers. They were plastic sticks with lights in them. He had a quick drink and kept going. The other time-passer was the silent TV screen showing a documentary on Lemmy. The subtitles were English. It never ended. Almost like Lemmy.

18th June, Sunday

It was a long walk to Gare St. Jean and I’m feeling the heat a bit more now. Resting on a soft seat, I’ll have to go about a return ticket to Biarritz soon… That’s done for tomorrow but I’m in no hurry to leave. The tickets cost €62 plus a few cent.

I’m in the St. André cathedral. It’s cool in here and there are lots of chairs. I could eat, I could sleep, I could take a leak. On the wander back from the station I passed two cardboard begging signs – in Arabic.

IMG_5302

IMG_5332

La Terrasse St. Pierre: an elderly American woman nearby seems to have married more people than Elizabeth Taylor but in a professional capacity. She was on about doing it in Nepal and then performing on the side of some hill. That was before she got on to her “Anne Frank experience” but I didn’t catch those details. I’ve had a duck burger here to fill a gap. It’s not that I’m into duck. Burger du canard was chalked on the board and I was curious.

After chilling at the hotel for three hours, I walked back over the Pont de Pierre. It was baking in the fierce evening sun. The brown water runs one way, then the other, but that must be the tide fighting the river.

IMG_5243

A tall cruise ship has somehow made it upriver to dock north of the Bourse. It must be here for the wine. I sat on a stone bench on the Place de la Bourse. At ten past ten the lights came on and I filmed the show.

 

Vienna, October 2013, Austria #3

Vienna, October 2013, Austria #3

Dr. John Flynn

Vienna Riesenrad Oct 2013

In October 2013, once aboard the plane to Vienna, I would have fallen asleep right away but for having to stay awake to order the breakfast. Awake all night with an upset stomach and then a long drive to the airport, I got less than an hour after that. At the Schweizerhof I had a shower and then slept for another three. Then it was time to head off, a bit like a zombie. That changed at Harry Lime’s doorway, by the smooth, sloping cobbles of Schreyvogelgasse. There was still daylight but lights shone from scattered windows. They reflected in others. Evening traffic hummed and rumbled on the nearby Ringstrasse, beyond which the university rose in the dusk.

Under the pale, yellowy pillars and ceiling arches, the Café Central was a temple for reflection on some of the characters – Freud, Hitler, Lenin, Trotsky, Tito – who had taken a…

View original post 518 more words

Austria, a notebook #1

Austria, a notebook #1

Dr. John Flynn

Austrians tend to make their lives easier, so first of all they are very polite and second they don’t mean it… The difference between Austrians and Germans is very much like Irish and English.

– Christoph Waltz

In Michael Frayn’s Travels with a Typewriter, a collection of articles from the 1960s and 1970s, the penultimate piece finds him in Vienna in 1975. His acquaintance there with a mathematics student from Berlin “outraged by all this charm” makes him consider “these two German worlds” but the effort to reconcile them in his head proves disconcerting. Frayn is, after all, English, and the irony of Austria can be rather more spiritually familiar to an Irish person. That’s if it even bears thinking about.

On the subject of the unwillingness of the Irish to step beyond the English-speaking world, economically or culturally, it is true that most of them…

View original post 1,206 more words

Paris November 2016 – France #5

Paris November 2016 – France #5

18th November, Friday

Over here it’s not as cold. JP was in the hotel (Verlain) when I got there. We were in adjoining rooms. I suggested going to the Quartier Latin. We got two fine planches at La Méthode on the little square/junction on rue Descartes where I stayed in 1996 and 2000.

IMG_4590

Then I showed him Le Piano Vache, which he liked even more. He described it as the Downey’s of Paris.

IMG_4593

He didn’t care for Le Violon Dingue (nor did I, though I’d been there before too) and we soon headed back for the Cork & Cavan, in which I saw no familiar face. We didn’t stay too late.

19th November, Saturday

Today we walked a long way. We started at Place d’Italie and headed to Montparnasse via La Butte des Cailles and Place Denfert-Rochereau.

IMG_4600

IMG_4604

IMG_4605

After lunch at Le Select, we got the metro on to Charles Michels, just a street away from the river and Allée des Cygnes.

IMG_4611

IMG_4614

From there we walked past the Tower, near which an anti-Trump demonstration was in progress, and cut down to rue Cler before passing Hôtel des Invalides on our way into St. Germain.

IMG_4623

IMG_4628

IMG_4639

The metro took us from St. Germain des Prés to Goncourt, back near the C&C.  D. joined us. He had witnessed a couple get shot dead, one after the other, outside a restaurant on Bataclan night. He was upstairs in a bar across the street.

The lads played darts. I’d made sure we got that narrow corner of the bar. A pretty Cavan girl called Aisling told me we’d known what we were doing by getting in there. I ended up drinking a couple of glasses of water before the end. JP and I left around one.

Stalag FÁS – Dublin @ the Millennium

Stalag FÁS – Dublin @ the Millennium

On 23 November 2008 an Irish Sunday newspaper exposed the colossal waste of public money at the state training agency, FÁS, an acronym that is also the Irish language word for growth. The agency had spent €643,000 on foreign junkets in the space of four years and the details of the first-class flights for officials and their wives, the top hotels, the gourmet meals and the rounds of golf in Florida led to a public outcry. The next day the agency’s director general Rody Molloy went on the radio and proclaimed he was “entitled” to travel first-class. On 25 November he resigned.

Less than a year later, the scandal exploded once more with the publication of a report by the Comptroller and Auditor General into the matter. This revealed more astounding waste, with €600,000 alone spent on a TV commercial that was never even broadcast. On 13 September 2009 it emerged that Molloy’s pension had been boosted by €1.4m following the intervention of two Fianna Fáil ministers. Following the severe thrashing handed out to Fianna Fáil in the general election of February 2011, the next government abolished the agency in October of that year.

Dickens always cringed at his memories of pasting labels on pots in a blacking factory. For me, it’s the coal face at FÁS, where there were no junkets and no entitlements. With a well-paid, part-time job in Dublin City University, I was looking forward in 1999 to finishing my Ph.D., out in Maynooth, but then I discovered that I wasn’t on the new tutor list at DCU. The first excuse offered was that I’d been there too long (“four years”). That was false. The second was that I’d proved incompetent, after they had doubled the amount of students in my care. That excuse was also abandoned. The third and final explanation was the old reliable – “a terrible administrative error” – and I was verbally promised a contract for the following year, which of course meant nothing.

I had to do something else. Unwisely, I chose a computer programming course, chez FÁS, on the Jamestown Road in Finglas on Dublin’s north side. Doing it meant twenty-five quid a week on top of the dole and the rent allowance. Looking back, I think maybe the real lesson that entire period imparted was that the whole of Dublin was a blacking factory.

1999

5th July, Monday

Let the course begin: our leader (Dazza) is facially part Peter Sellers, part Victor Buono.

ftc_entrance1

8th July, Thursday

Some nice women can be seen in the canteen and on the grass. It’s like college out there. The interior design class contains some attractive ones and so they are our stars.

13th July, Tuesday

The plankton eater was complaining about the pointless questions asked by his neighbour (Hugh – hair cropped, red-faced, all that seems missing is the Dublin football jersey). The plankton was eaten for his colon. Gone overboard on health food (including liquid protein) and still he doesn’t look overly healthy.

14th July, Wednesday

Some petty c*nt of an assistant manager put me out of the “staff toilets” in the corridor next to the canteen. I couldn’t believe it when it happened. I’d finished my leak. I didn’t say a word to him in response to “You’re not allowed in here” but just washed and dried my hands and left. We’d been told not to react to things like that.

21st July, Wednesday

I’ll be able to produce my thesis on my machine out there. More typing but think of the money saved.

9pm: some c*nt is roaring, somewhere out the back. I heard him for the first time last night. He’s upset about something. I want to move to a peaceful, bourgeois suburb.

22nd July, Thursday

Today was the first day I felt like throwing the mouse through the screen. The others are hooked up to sixteen-man Quake. We’re waiting for more people to come on Monday.

11th August, Wednesday

Eclipse: the class of welders had dark glass visor squares so we could see a green crescent. It gave us twilight and a drop in temperature.

12th August, Thursday

Stalag FÁS: Marcos and the Limerick boys were prevented from driving out at breakfast time and then Marcos was put out of the staff toilets.

3rd September, Friday

Niall and I are sitting down to breakfast in the canteen when the plankton eater comes over. “I’ve got nits,” he says, straight out, before we take a bite. Niall christened him Nit Boy.

Near midnight. I just had a shower to feel better, what with the blocked nose and not a breath outside. Had a few pints this afternoon with Niall and Hugh. Niall had tequilas. Hugh won’t sit upstairs on a double-decker bus. He’s afraid of heights.

6th September, Monday

Went to James’s Street post office this morning but got no rent allowance. They had new computers. Made it more of a pleasure, more of a breeze, for the blonde to tell me there was nothing there. Any question was cut short by telling the customer to go see social welfare. Who are the true parasites? The option is always to f*ck them out of it, for some small satisfaction, but you ration that. What about the day one of the Hitler Youth behind the glass gave the fella called Mustapha the grief about ID? No one else, just the dark-skinned gent. He said he was coming there every week and that he wasn’t a refugee (“I’m not refugee, I’m married here”). Not that the public servant’s words were objectionable but his tone was far out of order, as was his ‘discretionary’ (i.e. discriminatory) cheek. They wouldn’t be long having manners put on them up in the Barn. According to my neighbour Dermot, they never give anyone hassle up in Dolphin’s Barn. They wouldn’t dare.

7th September, Tuesday

Nothing there again this morning. This was the extent to which the Nazi with the earring was helpful: he muttered something behind the glass and when I said “What?” he exaggerated the words “Is it your day for signing on?” After a long wait in Bride Street, where I was almost the only Irish person in the queue, I discovered it was only a computer problem. I asked if I could get changed back to Leonard’s Corner post office.

10th September, Friday

A bunch of us were drinking in The Full Shilling in Finglas. Niall was asked to leave after slagging a one-legged biker.

12th September, Sunday

Sunday drags along and I await another week (no. 11). There’s a new, more attractive interior design class to cheer up the canteen. So what?

13th September, Monday

Compassion on the bus. I gave Niall and Dara a tenner each and we had a few pints in Bowe’s. Niall was thinking of nine quid out of reach in the bank and Dara was locked out of his flat.

15th September, Wednesday

Earned my first re-sit. It didn’t help that I felt tired, sleepy. What piece of happiness remains? A wardrobe full of clean laundry. I must pay more attention in class.

16th September, Thursday

Dazza told me five more minutes on the test and I’d have passed. Barely. I’ll re-sit and get it right.

21st September, Tuesday

At breakfast in the canteen, the plankton eater complimented the state of my teeth. He said he’d noticed on the bus the previous afternoon.

Last night I’d fallen asleep when the Algerians underneath came in after midnight and woke me up with their mouthing. They kept it up for an hour and when the guests left, one of the tenants had a ferocious dump. The smell wafted up to me, like a coup de grace. Open both windows. They had been good, quiet boys since the confrontation over the blaring of Rod Stewart a few weeks ago, when I stamped on the floor and one of them came up, giving out in broken English. I had a cold so I wasn’t worried about this Arab hothead. I figured the only way to get through to him was to speak French. He backed down and said sorry, once I’d explained and turned up my radio full blast, as a demonstration.

28th September, Tuesday

Breath mist on a bright morning. They’ve finally transferred my rent allowance back to Leonard’s Corner. Caught the tall blonde looking at me across the canteen (she’s tall in comparison with most of her class, the ‘new’ interior designers).

29th September, Wednesday

She’s elegant. Nice clothes, not glammed up. Our gazes, stares met, today, as she was about to sit down with her tray. She broke away. I’d be interested. My Ph.D. has more words than my M.A. now. Lastly, I managed to do a Basic 2 assignment, with help from the lads.

1st October, Friday

In Finglas I passed a re-sit (my cogging was more educated). Went to wet Maynooth, to the library. Back into town on a 66 bus with F. and C. C. Listening to them and their academic bitching and talking shop I thought, ‘I can’t do this, this is bullshit’. I knew that long ago.

15th October, Friday

Passed the second re-sit. Our class is being disrupted by re-roofing. Weather gloomy today after the blue skies. Yesterday morning on the bus I told myself to have courage, to persevere. Smell the bakery every morning on Sycamore Road.

18th October, Monday

A whirlwind start with Mike, the fat English instructor, at ‘C’, or C++? He described one of my programming attempts as “logical spaghetti”. Three days a week at this, for five weeks.

19th October, Tuesday

Most were in at nine. No let up. Never mind the litost, you’re learning and this stuff is worth it. I have to grasp the maths problems. The plankton eater told us he’s been riding a married woman for a couple of years and in an effort to get her to break it off with him he stole £60 from her purse. It didn’t work but it’s not much of an exaggeration to say Gary was in awe.

21st October, Thursday

In the night the winos were fighting in the back alley. When given out to, a woman among them mentioned the (symbolic) fact that a window was between them and the person giving out. A male wino shouted, “Nobody tells me what to do with my woman!” The power of the powerless.

26th October, Tuesday

It got to a stage where (I reckon) Mike was trying not to tear out his hair, while I was trying not to laugh, as he attempted to drum in the structure of a program I couldn’t grasp. I wanted the code, not the (mathematical) philosophy.

27th October, Wednesday

No class due to roofing. Three radio ads are signs of the times:

(a) an appeal for factory workers in Blanchardstown, money spelt out;
(b) the soccer player Paul McGrath on about a plastic surgery clinic;
(c) a hotline for software piracy.

28th October, Thursday

Trying to come to grips with the book Teach Yourself C++ in 21 Days, which I printed off some months ago. Home study tries to master this so I can get off this course. So I can get a job and get off this f*cking course. I shut down like Hal (except quicker) every time it’s back to Basic.

29th October, Friday

A multiple choice exam in Basic 2. 14 from 18 = pass mark. I got 14. Some educated guessing and plain guessing.

2nd November, Tuesday

Cold and bright. No heating due to the roofing. Had a couple of pints in the Bridge with Niall and the plankton eater.

4th November, Thursday

The tool’s equation of maths with fun reminds me of how in school such problems seemed as meaningless as cryptic crossword puzzles. What on earth is the relevance of calculating massive prime numbers to what we’re doing?

5th November, Friday

Rain. I barely attempted the Basic 2 practical exam today. Went to see American Pie in the Savoy. Do I really need to be reminded about sex? Had my dinner in the Portobello because it’s raining. First time there in ages. The Portobello is the ancestral home of Captain Shamrock.

10th November, Wednesday

Past the halfway point now. With this thing I feel I’m in the trenches. It’s not helped by this tosser, this smart-arse talking to me like I’m a schoolboy. He’s putting me off learning the blasted language. Life feels full of annoyances. This is what it’s like, tired in the evenings.

Walking up through town I saw a city of students. Some buskers on Grafton Street were doing I Shot The Sheriff in the style of Oasis. Some yahoos on the Green were mixing up Brits and Britney Spears in a Spanish guy’s head, explaining the crowd and the limos outside the Fitzwilliam Hotel (re MTV Awards, Thursday) and up on Wexford Street, across from Whelan’s and the Mean Fiddler, an aged-looking Noelle Campbell-Sharp stood in a black skirt and leather jacket talking to some green-jacketed bozos. All I heard while passing was “…really f*cking something. Now let me introduce you to…” One limo was reportedly burnt out on the Northside.

11th November, Thursday

A drunken scumbag landed beside (almost on) me on the bus. Fiddling with a walkman, he said he’d just robbed a car but his mates had driven it away on him.

14th November, Sunday

While my brother was a distant silhouette on a beach I thought about the fact that at twenty-one I couldn’t imagine being thirty but at thirty-five I can easily imagine being fifty.

15th November, Monday

Class abandoned due to lack of heating. Stages of life are only stages but should one worry, getting older, that the chances of better periods lessen? From ‘This will end’ to ‘How will this end?’

17th November, Wednesday

Went down by one mark in the multiple choice ‘C’ exam, then could only get so far into the practical (about bus tickets). I left at two. Any touch of litost is removed when a man knows he’s gotta know his limitations.

20th November, Saturday

An encounter at the salad bar in Dunnes Stores in Rathmines: a beautiful, black-haired, busty beautician in a tight, white coat. She was even nice to me. She showed me how to use the price-sticker machine. If she didn’t work in a beautician’s then at least she worked in a chemist’s. What a ride. You know what you’ll have to do. Life’s too short.

21st November, Sunday

Looking for the hoover, Sarah knocked on the door of number nine (top floor). One of those Algerians emerged (scratching his balls) from a haze of dope smoke and a sing-along to camel music. No, they didn’t have it.

22nd November, Monday

On the qt, after I asked, Dazza said that the (telephone) program Dermot gave me would constitute our exam. Dazza did his own version and tonight Dermot put it on a disk so tomorrow I’ll try and slip it from there to “My Documents” to the disk Mike will give me.

23rd November, Tuesday

A successful cog, I should hope. Switched labels on disks etc.

29th November, Monday

The cog was found out. The code was too good and the date a giveaway.

30th November, Tuesday

Windy, then wet. Didn’t sleep too well, didn’t do anything re the programming re-sit (and got 18 this time instead of 20 in the multiple choice). Still, there was a bit of poetic justice in the end of the day that made my day. Despite having the exam program done for them by Dazza and then keeping it to themselves, the Three Licks still failed, to general delight. Everyone bar Keith failed.

I wonder how long it will be before I lose it with fat, snide Mike. I’d have done it before now if I thought he was worth rearing up on but he just may pester me over the edge soon. He seems to be goading me to quit, to suit himself, but he’ll be the last person I’ll do anything to suit. As for that other bollocks Dazza, he’s little better.

This morning on the bus I had to listen to a DCU student who incidentally looked a bit like me, with glasses and cap. I saw what he looked like when I looked around to see who was talking like that. He was from the West and he was pontificating in the manner of a typically ignorant student of some technical subject. The object of his bullshit was a girl who was both Australian and Jewish. He told her that the passing of the Millennium marked two thousand years from the start of “modern civilization”. She was able to point out that the Romans were established long before that and when he turned to the purely Christian thing she countered with the priority of Jewish history. Then he said, “You’re a lapsed Jew, I presume” and (luckily for him) she said, “What’s ‘lapsed’?” He had been to America so of course he knew everything. He knew nothing, except that “California rocks”, and I wanted to shoot him.

2nd December, Thursday

Dazza told Keith he thought he’d have to extend the course (on a day when he did forty-five minutes’ teaching).

Went to see Morrissey at the Olympia. Seventeen songs. When he threw his (first) sweaty t-shirt into the crowd it arrived back on the stage after a few minutes. (“When I threw it in I didn’t expect it back. Really, I insist.”) When he sang “Do you care how animals die?” I’d swear I heard a chorus of “No!

3rd December, Friday

Docking me three days for last week [while I was hundreds of miles away at a funeral in Kerry] was bad enough but when Dazza feigned surprise and then I saw what he’d written on the timesheet I just f*cked him out of it.

4th December, Saturday

Frost. Tour guide to T. and V. A good day was had, in the cold, bright capital. First time in the Cellar Bar. T. told me his junkie half-brother survived a shotgun blast, which blew a hole in him, but died later of an overdose. The Yugoslavian Mafia have now flooded Oslo with good, cheap heroin.

7th December, Tuesday

Having had a bad night (hot, aching, dizzy, with laboured breathing) I was surprised this morning to find the oncoming ‘flu’ gone. Cold twilights leaving Finglas. The women on Camden Street looked well, wrapped up but feeling the cold. It made them more alive. You could see it in their eyes, in their faces.

8th December, Wednesday

As well as the cold now, the wind is up and the rain is down. Some vessel is missing off Galway in the storm. Since last night I’ve had a pain in my left shoulder, roughly speaking. Nothing’s gone.

10th December, Friday

I thought I was bad, arriving in at twelve, but Hugh didn’t show up until 12.45. This is on a half day.

14th December, Tuesday

I was only words away from a successful cog at the telephone program test. I had a hard copy of the program inside my jacket but made a simple error copying it and the program wouldn’t run. I’d never have seen the obvious mistake.

15th December, Wednesday

Which word is more accurate, “lonely” or “alienated”? When the majority of women seem to dream of timber floors and freezers big enough to hold a man, I cling to the latter term. You know the way they think when you pass them on the street because you can hear them talking into their mobiles.

The Boys from Ballymun

The evening bus picked them up on Ballymun Road. At first they seemed to be talking about an ominously immediate situation like shoplifting or mugging. The more sober and coherent of the two made two points.

(a) He’d batter anyone who decided to mix it
(b) It only takes a minute to get away

When they were talking about how much “a fix” is these days (£20) I thought ‘That’s cheap heroin’ but they were on about prostitutes. The same guy said he got one for £15, when he was a truck driver. He used to park the truck down on Benburb Street and do the business. “You wouldn’t go down there now,” said his more out-of-it companion (who was carrying something in a grey bag). Reason? “They’re all riddled with AIDS.” The first one said he’d had a fourteen-year-old down there who’d been abused by her father since she was six, “until he put her out on the game”. They said they’d roast that man on a small fire. “I’d keep adding coal to it and his screams would be heard for a thousand years,” said the main talker, the leader. Then he extrapolated.

You see some people with their kids and they’re f*ckin’ bootin’ the bollix out of ’em and punchin’ ’em in the head. I mean, what do these people be tinkin’?

They said that Ballymun’s kids had gone quiet “because their fathers told ’em ‘Watch out for him’ and ‘Stay away from him’ and so on”. They were scared, in other words.

But Finglas is still a wild place. The kids are into it, turnin’ over coppers’ cars with coppers inside in ’em.”

Their last earwig-able subject was driving. On being told he couldn’t drive the number two said he’d driven when he was pissed. Then the leader told his own parable.

This is what I did. I went and bought a car off the knackers and I got me ould fella to drive me up to the industrial estate. By nine o’clock that night I was a f*cking rally driver. I was fifteen.”

Those two were an education. And these are only the bits I could make out from their conversation, while the clicks of the lighter signalled joint-rolling was going on (“Put in more soup”).

16th December, Thursday

Ran off a hard copy of the thesis. 190 pages. I need to go over that with a pen in order to come up with a total draft for January. I could have done it by now but who would look at it over Christmas? Who will anyway?

I’ve addressed a letter to the customer complaints section of Dublin Bus on Upper O’Connell Street.

Since last July I have had to use the 19/19A service on a daily basis and in general the impression I have formed it is that it is an utter disgrace. What prompts me to write this letter is analogous to the straw that broke the camel’s back. This morning I was the last passenger on a single-decker 19A that turned on to Cedarwood Road. The bald, bespectacled driver stopped the bus and disembarked, saying he’d be back in a couple of minutes. Given that the terminus for the 19A is McKee Road, for which I had paid, what really made me lose my temper was the fact that the same driver had pulled the same stunt at the same point a couple of months earlier. On that occasion he said he wanted to go into a shop to get his breakfast so I said it was okay, got off and walked up Sycamore Road. This time, I got off and asked why he wouldn’t do his job – with a few expletives added, admittedly – and he then gave the excuse that he wanted to go to the toilet. Colleagues of mine who use the same route have had similar experiences with this individual. Employees like him and another individual who happens to live on Sycamore Road and who has been witnessed taking breaks in his own house during shifts only add to the common impression that many of your drivers treat the public with contempt.

Even a fellow driver parked on McKee Road confessed that the last chap indicated was taking the piss.

22nd December, Wednesday

Town is mad. It would be a good day to punch a few people’s lights out. I lost it a bit with some screeching little slappers on a bus stuck dead in traffic.

23rd December, Thursday

Did my bit of shopping. Got a poster for Bela Lugosi’s Dead in Final Vinyl. At the end of the night Dermot bought a voucher so I could have a lap dance in Strings. I declined the offer.

29th December, Wednesday

Before the end of the year let me note the last strange thing told to me by the plankton eater, of a morning in the canteen. He said he saw a girl electrocuted at a rave in a big squat in London, in Willesden Green. She was heating a hash knife at a cooker when she let the knife touch the ring. Dodgy wiring meant she was blown back against the wall, dead. He said that three fellas tripping with him at the time started crying and that they weren’t right for days. When I asked him what he did, he said he just left, along with everyone else.

30th December, Thursday

George Harrison was stabbed by an intruder but his wife managed to knock the guy out. I hope nothing takes to the air in Russia (Y2K). The Finns have stocked up with iodine tablets.

2000

4th January, Tuesday

What next? Dazza is gone from us, mysteriously. Big Mike is holding the fort, in his own room, while the heating is gone again in ours. He had the Three Licks in with him, while Niall, Hugh and I remained in the cold, doing our own thing.

5th January, Wednesday

Today, in the other classroom, Mike’s last word to try and get me to do something was “please”. Therefore I worked on an exam program or two (esp. the bus ticket one). I’m going to try and get the ‘C’ module and the Visual Basic. Still working on the end of the thesis, at home and in breaks.

7th January, Friday

£27.68 pay. Don’t ask me. Hugh kindly got me five pints in the Long Stone.

10th January, Monday

Failed the multiplication tables test today. Another case of being unable to spot simple errors.

11th January, Tuesday

Dank drizzle. Mike began teaching the rest of them Prolog today, in the other room, so I occupied myself finishing a draft of the thesis (190 pages, 43,000 words). My drawing of Mike with the speech bubble saying “I love to count” is still up on the white board.

About a hundred pages to go in Dracula. Mina Harker is a good name for a heroine. I didn’t expect so much humour, although some of it is unintentional. Where Van Helsing lists the strengths and weaknesses of the Count I was thinking of a phrase from At Swim-Two-Birds (“rat-bite at twilight”). The boys seem a bit incompetent at combating vampires. I’m getting a bit tired of their emotional pledging to each other.

12th January, Wednesday

Wet again. Passed the phone program exam. Maybe I finally knew what I was cogging? It was my third attempt at it. Did a bit more on the thesis, tidying up the last chapter. Added a coffin to the picture of Mike. Put him in it, in other words.

14th January, Friday

Half an hour in Maynooth. Gave the draft to the dept. secretary (Maureen). Saw Rosie, whom I shifted in Parson’s Street time. After a moment of recognition, she didn’t want to know. I said nothing.

It’s five to twelve and I’ve just finished Dracula. The ending is a bit anti-climactic. Overall the Count isn’t in it enough. Mina is quite a heroine after all. She even gets a gun (a revolver). The co-operation of every working-class person in the book has to be solicited with booze.

16th January, Sunday

I passed up South Great George’s Street. The George was blasting the Weather Girls and guys in sleeveless t-shirts could be made out, leaning against the glass, in the crowd inside.

17th January, Monday

Before I got in (noon) some FÁS person had tried to tell the class the Visual Basic module would be cancelled. More annoyingly, it seems the Three Licks in the class knew since November that Dazza would be leaving and again said nothing.

18th January, Tuesday

A good day. I passed the two-hour multiplication tables test and later showed a grateful bus driver – new to the 19 route – how to get from Finglas to Parnell Square. That included a trip round the houses on Tolka Estate.

21st January, Friday

No half days now on Friday because Dazza is back to do VB with us. When he said almost immediately that Cobol was bollocks and useless then I knew for certain I wouldn’t bother with those exams. He got the chop, he said, because it was either that or they would have had to give him a permanent job. They gave that to Mike.

22nd January, Saturday

The new beauty (lounge girl) in Cassidy’s is Canadian, I discovered last night. I’d thought she was Scandinavian. Her grandfather was Norwegian.

IMG_5191

26th January, Wednesday

Same cold fog. Around this time each week I think of Mr Micawber’s distinction between happiness and misery based on being a bob over or a bob under. As I nearly always manage the former, my empathy with the outlook is reinforced. Until Friday. Mike shaved half an hour off my clocked-in time last week because he claimed I did nothing between 10.30 and 11.00 on one of the days. I told him it was a despicable thing to do.

27th January, Thursday

Didn’t hear the PA say “Gerry Sperm” (Gerry Sperrin?) today until late afternoon. The plankton eater arrived late. It took two hospitals to remove the toilet paper he’d bunged in his ear on Monday night in some night club. We had pints later in Bowe’s. Thanks Niall. I told them that Mike had me sussed (by now I use the course “to pass the time and pursue pet projects”, in his words).

31st January, Monday

Today the canteen served a nice beef stroganoff and pear crumble. Great surprise for a Monday, there, but a Hungarian group was on tour.

4th February, Friday

Had a few drinks after the course with Gary, Hugh and Niall. Niall told me how there came a moment in Holland when he was heading to work and he realized that for the first time in his life he didn’t have to worry about anything. He got off the tram. Three months later it was all gone.

7th February, Monday

Dermot and I went to the jobs fair in the RDS. Met Niall and Hugh. Niall stayed with us but got the boot from Cassidy’s. He’d begun to annoy Dermot before that. Miss Canada still brought us rounds and then some bird sent down a pair of double gins. While Niall, Dermot and I had been up the back, some cops arrived in, celebrating something. Miss Canada brought us some of their cocktail sausages and then we spotted a guy holding a tray full of delicacies like chicken nuggets. He had grey hair and seemed to have some seniority. I went at his cargo with both hands and this was the exchange.

“Who are you?”
“Ah, Inspector Gadget.”
He gave a grunt.
“I’ll give you Inspector Gadget!”

He turned on his heel with the tray.

10th February, Thursday

Passed the first VB exam with a little help from Dazza. Passed the multiple choice ‘C’ exam (22 out of 30) yesterday. This week has been quite bitter, weather-wise. You can see the traffic on the M50 from the window of the room we’re in now. Planes take off close by too.

14th February, Monday

No sign of an instructor today. The bus home was covered in leaflets. A strike tomorrow.

16th February, Wednesday

The FÁS f*ckers are docking us for not going in yesterday, when there were no buses. Passed the last ‘C’ exam (ISBN numbers). We’re out of there on Friday. We only have to check in a couple of times a week after that. The weather is bitter, arctic. A bit of snow fell.

18th February, Friday

Last day. Passed the last two VB exams. I’ve got what I wanted from the course: C and VB.

28th February, Monday

I rang Havas Interactive about contract/freelance work testing games and educational software. N. works there.

2nd March, Thursday

A general thumbs-up from Liam Ryan in Maynooth. He said he’d ask Andrew Greeley to be my external examiner. That would be a bit of a coup. Failing that, he’ll ask Steve Yearley. Not a bad name either. It’s a bit like Kafka’s Court out there – even with some kindness, it still receives you when you come and relinquishes you when you go. I must hand the thesis in (with revisions) by the middle of July.

3rd March, Friday

Just had a few pints in a packed Cassidy’s. The Canadian called me by name for the first time. I blew her a little kiss before I left. Across the counter, when she took my glass, having signalled a request for permission. Dream on.

14th March, Tuesday

Maybe after Fight Club stupid jobs don’t seem quite so lacking in ‘potential’? Grafton Recruitment want to send me out to Hertz in Swords to enter data. Natasha – a fine-looking girl – good at being professionally nice – push all these people into the front line of shit jobs. The best spin that can be put on something like that is that I have to start somewhere. You have to start from scratch somewhere.

15th March, Wednesday

Last visit to FÁS? On the way out I read twenty-six more pages of Fight Club, on the way in I read sixteen. Niall gave me the book a few weeks ago. My brother rang. He said Swords would be too much hassle.

23rd March, Thursday

When she looks at me and smiles is it any wonder that I may expect too much out of life? Her visible enthusiasm on seeing us enter late – Dermot (“your girlfriend”) remarked on it – makes me think I’ve just got to ask her out. What am I saying?

27th March, Monday

N. said Havas were looking for someone. I did four and a half hours in East Point. I’m to go back on 12 April.

28th March, Tuesday

Not only have I no dole but I’ve also had my rent allowance cut off. All because of FÁS failing to send out that letter of termination.

Went to see American Beauty. The satirical comedy is good but the film is a bit pervy. No one seemed to close their curtains in that neighbourhood.

29th March, Wednesday

After closing time the Canadian came in. I went over to talk to her. Eyes were still like dark forest pools reflecting slivers of light. It was interesting to see her ‘dazed’. It was like her own private joke. The searchlight beam of her smile drew me across in the first place.

31st March, Friday

I got a cheque from Havas this morning. I’m wanted there for a month.

1st April, Saturday

The power of the powerless: yesterday Eugene McGee said there are 30,000 GAA officials. No need for fight clubs here then.

3rd April, Monday

A bright, cold day in April. FÁS finally sent me the letter. I should have my dole back by Friday.

6th April, Thursday

When I had my back turned, getting some milk and sugar, I got a poke in the back. When I sat by a window she asked was I eating anything. I told her I was cold and that was the reason for the coffee. The place seemed quiet. Let her do her job. I slipped away. Being here is just a big adventure. Went down to Bride Street and told Maguire I’m working from next Wednesday.

7th April, Friday

Last night she was telling me in the Horse how she didn’t like to be leered at in that “meat market”. Today I went down to Thomas Street and signed off.

8th April, Saturday

Last night she had a stud in her lower lip, put in yesterday. She asked if I liked it. I said yes. She’d have to do a lot more than that to spoil her beauty. There’s so little beauty in the world so enjoy her presence while it lasts. Like an impending exam or big game, the thought of her sneaks back in and grabs hold of consciousness every time I try to think of something else. You try to grasp a piece of flotsam, only to slip beneath the waves into the black void again. That’s the killer. She is twenty years old.

13th April, Thursday

Made a start, back at the Ph.D. On the passing of time and what is produced: didn’t it take me long enough to write good academic work? Be patient, you seem to live slowly but you can come up with the goods in the end. In the pub, the Canadian put her arm around my shoulders and leaned into me. “Hello baby,” I said. She said she’d discovered large bottles of Bulmers the night before and had “about ten” of them, with a guilty chuckle. She wore a beautiful, high-neck, grey-brown sweater.

17th April, Monday

It turns out P. McCaul is in Havas as well. He said he’d put my name down for a localisation project that could last a year or more. My cert from FÁS has arrived in the post. It’s wrong. There’s no mention of Visual Basic. I’m just going to send it back.

windmill

28th April, Friday

She told me she read the e-mail I sent. She liked it. Her demeanour suggested telling her she had beautiful eyes did no harm. Ask her out to dinner. Ask her tomorrow night, sick puppy. A couple of times she was standing close to me, waiting for the others to order, and it felt like there’s something not quite wrong here.

29th April, Saturday

I asked her and she said yes. She has to find out what nights she’s off. She said she’d phone me. Relief. Though I got a bit tongue-tied at the start she did make it easy. She waited calmly, expectantly, while I tried to ask.

Vienna, March 2017 (Austria #13)

Vienna, March 2017 (Austria #13)

4th March, Saturday

It was a rainy night on the way to Dublin in JP’s van. We met PT at the airport. In Vienna the sun was shining, though the wind and dust picked up as the day went on. After the Museumsquartier courtyard offered nothing of interest, we couldn’t get seats inside or outside the packed Palmenhaus so we dined instead at the Führich behind the Albertina. The Zwiebelrostbraten I had was a good lunch choice, in keeping with the waiter’s initial comment. Gute Wahl. Then the walking tour began.

IMG_5074

We had to queue with the nations of the earth to get into the Café Central but the pit stop was met with approval before we found we couldn’t get up the steps below Ruprechtskirche. It’s a Baustelle, as the side of a building is being torn down. An empty, silent digger showed that work had been abandoned for the day. I just snapped PT zipping up after leaking in a nook therein. He got the idea from an Arab who seemed to appear out of nowhere or out of a brick wall. Thereafter we got to Ruprechtskirche via Rabensteig before heading down Fleischmarkt and cutting back to the cathedral via the large Jesuit church on Seipel Platz. Back at the Hotel Admiral, JP and I needed some sleep so it was two hours later before all three of us went to Charlie P’s on Währingerstrasse.

Photo1417

PT left by half past eleven but JP and I didn’t get back to the hotel until three in the morning, after a stop at a Würstelstand. The only nuisance had been a drunk young local lad tapping me with his elbow for an extended period in the pub. He was reeling at the counter so I only complained once. Bitte, bitte, Ellenbogen. Bitte!

5th March, Sunday

JP and I didn’t leave the hotel until two this afternoon. I’d made it down to breakfast after nine – in boots with no socks – just so I’d sleep on better with something in my stomach. I even brought a Semmel with ham and cheese back to the room and ate that at noon to enhance the effect.

PT was gone early and I put my phone on silent to minimise the impact of any texts. I’d already denied his request to come a-knocking, all for the cause of sleep. He probably got the same answer from JP. We caught up with him in Café Griensteidl where we had lunch (Fiakergulasch – I’ve eaten well). Then I brought them past the 1516 bar on the way out to the Oberes Belvedere.

IMG_5150

IMG_5148

The gallery has a “selfie copy” of Klimt’s The Kiss. It stands in a room overlooking the bare garden that slopes away, all the way back down to the lower palace. The original hangs in comparative darkness in the next room.

17022284_1367268979985388_45258741828564676_n

PT and I went in. JP went back down the hill to 1516, where we rejoined him after five. My favourite painting had been the sunny Der Naschmarkt in Wien (1894) by Carl Moll.

naschmarkt moll

JP was “happy out” in the pub. I left them there around six. I had to get some money and freshen up at the hotel. A young Arab woman in a headscarf got some from an ATM on Kärtner Strasse and then just stood there yakking on her phone while the screen showed ads in anticipation of the next customer. Rolling my eyes at the gentleman behind me, I had to issue another Bitte or two, over her shoulder, before she moved away without even turning her head.

Back in 1516 by nine. PT didn’t stay out too long tonight either. Not for the first time JP mentioned that the early morning flight is just a bit too much. Oh we’ve managed well but it is a physical test, basically losing a night’s sleep to get here from Dublin. There were at least two Hungarian girls among the waitresses. JP was absent for the moment the dark little one smiled and did a vertical high kick at the nearby service end of the counter (“So fast nobody saw it,” she giggled). When I asked her in Hungarian if she was bored, she got back to work. The tall, curvy one had simply said Igen when confirming where she was from. Hungarians don’t expect foreigners to have a clue about their language. The barman was Irish, from Galway. There six years, he’s about to get married.

We ended up in Flanagan’s (a stone’s throw away) because JP was looking for a charger for his phone. He liked that place too. It was quiet, unsurprisingly, on a Sunday night. A lad with his back to me had a black and white baseball cap and for a minute or two I thought he was a Jew. The top of the cap was white and the black blended in with his dark hair. The optical illusion of a skull cap struck JP too, when I told him to take a look. We talked a bit to a barman from Coolock, in Dublin. He’s been in Vienna twelve years. Married a Croat.

My two companions seem to have been very impressed here – “a real melting pot” (JP) – but, as I said to them, I’m not doing the 07.10 again. Certainly not just after driving 200 km from the south coast. JP likened the effect to jet lag. From past experience I know I won’t know the impact of this trip until the aftermath but I did all I could in a couple of days. I’ll know how good it was when I recover from it.